PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS - Limiting Predator Access

Proper box depth, roof, and entrance hole design will help minimize predator (raccoons, cats, opossums, and red squirrels) access to birds living in your birdhouses. Sometimes all it takes is an angled roof with a three-inch overhang to discourage mammals.

The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird house full of nestlings. By itself, the 3/4" wall isn't wide enough to keep out the arm of a raccoon or house cat.  Add a predator guard a 3/4 inch thick rectangular wood block, to thicken the wall, and you'll discourage sparrows, starlings, and cats.

Cats  
Nesting birds are very vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and birds roosting for the night.  Bell collars on cats offer birds little protection.  Nailing a sheet metal guard or cone to a tree trunk is unsightly, but it may deter less agile felines.  Birdhouses mounted on metal poles are the most difficult for predators to reach, especially if you smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture.

Dogs
Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer.  All it takes is one swift bite and the baby bird is gone.  Don't let your dog run loose during nesting time.

Squirrels 
Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious menace to bird houses and the birds themselves.  If you find your nest hole enlarged, chances are a red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs and young.   Adding a predator guard of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually enough to keep squirrels out.

Raccoons and Opossums
Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try to pull out the adult, young, and eggs. Adding a predator guard to the bird house or to its pole support is a simple solution.

Snakes
Snakes are an important part of the natural balance between predator and prey.  If you find one of these reptiles in your bird house, please don't kill it.  Snake-proof your house by putting it on a metal pole lathered with a petroleum jelly or hot red cayenne pepper.

European Starlings and House Sparrows  
If you don't discourage them, these two pest species introduced from Europe will bully or kill cavity-nesting birds.  Since house sparrows and starlings are not protected by law, you may destroy their nests.  But, remember, other birds are protected by law.

 

House Wrens
Sometimes house wrens interfere with the nesting success of other birds by puncturing their eggs.  But unlike the sparrow and starling, these birds are part of the natural system. They are protected by law.  Don't be tempted to intervene.

 


Insects
Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. You should inspect your bird houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats, and bees.  You can keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating the inside of the roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths abound, avoid placing boxes in oak trees, which are favored by the gypsy moths.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly larvae, bird lice, and mites.  Use only after the birds have finished nesting for the season.

I hope the information we have been providing in our blog has helped you to enjoy your bird watching.  Please feel free to add any tips or tidbits of information for our readers. If you have an interest in adding to your birdhouse or bird feeder collection, visit our website at www.aboutbirdhouses.com. 

BIRD HOUSE PLACEMENT

Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and construction. Cavity nesting birds are very particular about where they live. No matter how perfect your bird house or nest box, if you don't have the right habitat, the birds aren't likely to find it.  Not everyone has the habitat for a wood duck, purple martin, or screech owl. On the other hand, just about anyone can attract a robin, titmouse, wren, or chickadee.

Let's assume you've built or bought the "perfect" birdhouse. You put it out in your backyard in February. Months pass, and not one bird has landed on it. What's wrong?   It may be that you don't have the right habitat, or it may be where you placed the birdhouse.

There are a lot of things you can do to modify your land to attract the birds you want to see.  It can be as simple as putting out a bird bath or as complicated as planting fruit-bearing shrubs or installing a pond with a waterfall.  But it's much easier just to identify the birds most likely to take to your backyard as it is and place the appropriate nest box in the right place.

Should you hang it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence, or mount it on a pole or a tree trunk?   There's a wide range between how high and low you can place a nest box. Pick a height that's convenient for you. After all, you'll want to watch what goes on and keep the box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second floor window or deck, fifteen feet is not unreasonable but it's a lot easier to clean out a box at eye level.

Here are some tips on where to put bird houses:
•    Birdhouses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than birdhouses nailed to tree trunks or hung from tree limbs.
•    Use no more than four small nest boxes for any one species or one large box per acre.
•    Put about 100 yards between bluebird birdhouses and 75 yards between swallow boxes (if you have both species, "pair" the houses with one bluebird box 25 feet from a swallow box. Put the "pair" 100 yards away.)
•    Don't put bird houses near bird feeders.
•    Don't put more than one box in a tree, unless the tree is extremely large or the boxes are for different species.
•    If you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes north or east to avoid overheating the box.
We hope this information helps you to enjoy the many different birds you will attract to your backyard.  When you have the time check out the many birdhouses and bird feeders we have available at our website www.aboutbirdhouses.com.

Checking Your Birdhouses and Nest Boxes

Watch the birdhouse for a couple of days.  If you don't see or hear any birds, go over and tap on the box. If you hear bird sounds, open the top and take a quick peek inside. If everything's okay, close the box. If you see problems (parasites or predators), remove them and close the box.


Installing birdhouses that can be opened from the top will make the process of maintaining your birdhouses a simpler job.  Most bird houses can be opened from the top, the side, the front, or the bottom.

Birdhouses that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access.  Opening the box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds.  It's impossible to open a box from the bottom without the nest falling out.  While side- and front-opening boxes are convenient for cleaning and monitoring, they have one drawback: the nestlings may jump out.

If this happens, don't panic.  Just pick them up and put them back in the nest.  Don't worry that the adults will reject the nestlings if you handle them.  That's a myth.  Most birds have a terrible sense of smell.

If you clean out your birdhouses after each brood has fledged, several pairs may use the nest throughout the summer.  Many cavity nesting birds will not nest again in a box full of old nesting

In the fall, after you've cleaned out your bird houses for the last time, you can put them in storage or leave them out.  Gourds and pottery last longer if you take them in for the winter.  You can leave your purple martin houses up, but be sure to plug the entrance holes to discourage starlings and house sparrows.   Leaving your wood and concrete houses out provides shelter for birds, flying squirrels, and other animals during winter.   Each spring be sure to clean out all the birdhouses you've left out for the winter.

Birdhouse Maintainance

There are several maintenance items you should be aware of to make your birdhouses safe and comfortable for its’ occupants.  Here are a few:

Ventilation

Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. The two best ways to provide ventilation are to  leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4" holes just below the roof.  Remember our homes have ventilation vents to help with air in our homes.

Drainage

Water can become a problem when it sits in the bottom of the bird house.  A roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection.  Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the water out.

Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole.  You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and drilling 1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors are recessed about 1/4 inch.

Entrance Hole

Most entrance and exit holes on the front panel near the top.  A rough surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the box and, when it's time, for the nestlings to climb out.

If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside below the hole.  Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside.   Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole.  Perches offer starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait for lunch.

Don't be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share their birdhouse. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Accessibility

Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds are doing and, when the time comes to clean out the house.  Part of being a responsible birdhouse landlord is your willingness to watch out for your tenants. Monitor your bird houses every week and evict unwanted creatures: house sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, and insects.

Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes. You may find something other than a bird inside. Don't be surprised to see squirrels, a mouse, a snake, or insects. Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box.

If you find insects and parasites, your first reaction may be grab the nearest can of insect spray. If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1% rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of the box with bar soap.

Take care of your birdhouses and enjoy the tenants.  To see many great looking birdhouses go to www.aboutbirdhouse.com.  See you in the next post.

SELECTING A HOUSE

In the bird house business, there's no such thing as "one size fits all." You need to decide which bird you want to attract, then get a birdhouse for that particular bird.

 Look through any book or catalog and you'll see bird houses of all sizes and shapes, with perches and without, made of materials you might not have thought of: recycled paper, gourds, plastic, rubber, pottery, metal, and concrete.  So what makes a "good" bird house? It's a combination of quality materials and design.

 MATERIALS

Of all the available building materials, wood is about as good as you can get. It's durable, has good insulating qualities, and it breathes. Three-quarter-inch-thick bald-cypress and red cedar are recommended. Pine and exterior grade plywood will do, but they're not as durable.
It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as long as the inside has not been treated with stains or preservatives. Fumes from the chemicals could harm the birds.

There's no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood houses will last longer with a coat of water based exterior latex paint. White is the color for purple martin houses. Tan, gray, or dull green works best for the other cavity nesting species. The dull, light colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators. Don't paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole.

Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you nail them will extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass shank nails, hinges, and screws resist rusting and hold boxes together more tightly as they age.

 Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. Reflective metal makes sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when it's tacked onto a roof of a wood chickadee house, the metal is more likely to attract predators.

Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They "breathe," and because they sway in the wind are less likely to be taken over by house sparrows and starlings.  Grow your own gourds and you'll have dozens to choose from in the years ahead. If you don't have the space to grow them, a coat of polyurethane or exterior latex (on the outside only) will add years to the one you have.

Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), concrete, and plastic houses will breathe and are durable, but don't drop them.  Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for maintenance and monitoring. Concrete (actually a mix of concrete and sawdust) offers protection other houses cannot: squirrels cannot chew their way in.

 DESIGN

How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of aesthetics. For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right dimensions: box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole above the box floor. Send me an email for the for the birdhouse dimensions for the species you are trying to attract. 

However, keep in mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So don't be surprised when you find tenants you never expected in a house you intended for someone else.  Check out the birdhouses available at www.aboutbirdhouses.com.  In the next post we will talk about ventilation, drainage and the entrance hole.  Until then.

Part 5: Birds You Can Attract to Your Bird Houses and Nest Boxes

This is a continuing series on attracting birds to your yard.

Flycatchers

The great crested flycatcher and its western cousin, the ash-throated flycatcher, are common in wooded suburbs. Their natural nesting sites are abandoned woodpecker holes.  Flycatchers may nest in a birdhouse if it's placed about ten feet up in a tree in an orchard or at the edge of a field or stream. 

Woodpeckers

You can attract all kinds of woodpeckers with a suet feeder, but only the flicker and the red-bellied are likely to use  birdhouses. They prefer a box with roughened interior and a floor covered with a two-inch layer of wood chips or coarse sawdust. Flickers are especially attracted to birdhouses filled with sawdust, which they "excavate" to suit themselves.  For best results, place the box high up on a tree trunk exposed to direct sunlight. 

Owls

Most owls seldom build their own nests. Great horned and long-eared owls prefer abandoned crow and hawk nests. Other owls (barred, barn, saw-whet, boreal and screech) nest in tree cavities and birdhouses. 

Barn owls are best known for selecting nesting sites near farms. Where trees are sparse, these birds will nest in church steeples, silos, and barns. If you live near a farm or a golf course, try fastening a birdhouse about 15 feet up on a tree trunk. 

Screech owls prefer abandoned woodpecker holes at the edge of a field or neglected orchard. They will readily take to boxes lined with an inch or two of wood shavings. If you clean the birdhouse out in late spring after the young owls have left, you may attract a second tenant--a kestrel. Trees isolated from larger tracts of woods have less chance of squirrels taking over the birdhouse.  Check out the supply of birdhouses available at www.aboutbirdhouses.com.

Part 4: Birds You Can Attract to Your Bird Houses and Nest Boxes

This is a continuing series on attracting birds to your yard.

Purple Martins

Many people want martins because, it's been said, these birds "can eat 2,000 mosquitoes a day." While it's true that they eat flying insects, don't expect purple martins to wipe out your mosquitoes. Martins actually prefer dragonflies, these insects prey on mosquito larvae. 

Mosquitoes are most active after sunset. If you want to rid your yard of mosquitoes, put up a bat roosting box.  One bat can eat thousands of mosquitoes a night.  But don't cross martins off your prospective tenant list because they don't live up to their "bug zapping" reputation. If you need a reason for attracting them, these gregarious swallows put on a show that's better than any television soap opera. 

You have the best chance of attracting martins if you put a birdhouse on the edge of a pond or river, surrounded by a field or lawn. Martins need a radius of about 40 feet of unobstructed flying space around their houses. A convenient fence or telephone wire nearby gives them a place to perch in sociable groups. 

Martins nest in groups, so you'll need a bird condo with a minimum of four large rooms -- 6 or more inches on all sides, with a 2-1/4 inch entrance hole about an inch and a half above the floor. Ventilation and drainage are critical factors in martin house design. Porches, railings, porch dividers and supplemental roof perches, like a TV antenna, will make any bird house more appealing. 

Gourds may also be made into houses by making an entrance hole and providing drainage. If you use gourds, it's not necessary to add railings and perches. Adult martins will perch on the wire used to hang the houses. 

Before you decide on a house, take the time to think about what kind of pole you're going to put it on. Martins will occupy a house that's between ten and twenty feet off the ground. Some poles are less cumbersome than others. 

Gourd houses are the easiest to set up. You can string them:

• from a wire between two poles
• from a sectional aluminum pole
• on pulleys mounted to cross-bar high up on a pole.  

Light-weight aluminum birdhouses can be mounted on telescoping poles, providing easy access for maintenance and inspection. Because of their weight (well over 30 pounds), wooden birdhouses cannot be mounted on easy-access telescoping poles. You'll have to use a sturdy metal or wood pole attached to a pivot post. The problem with this "lowering" technique is that you can't tilt the house without damaging the nests inside. If you put your house on a shorter, fixed pole, ten to twelve feet high, you can use a ladder to inspect and maintain it. 

Please check out the vast array of bird houses at www.aboutbirdhouses.com.