PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS - Limiting Predator Access

Proper box depth, roof, and entrance hole design will help minimize predator (raccoons, cats, opossums, and red squirrels) access to birds living in your birdhouses. Sometimes all it takes is an angled roof with a three-inch overhang to discourage mammals.

The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird house full of nestlings. By itself, the 3/4" wall isn't wide enough to keep out the arm of a raccoon or house cat.  Add a predator guard a 3/4 inch thick rectangular wood block, to thicken the wall, and you'll discourage sparrows, starlings, and cats.

Cats  
Nesting birds are very vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and birds roosting for the night.  Bell collars on cats offer birds little protection.  Nailing a sheet metal guard or cone to a tree trunk is unsightly, but it may deter less agile felines.  Birdhouses mounted on metal poles are the most difficult for predators to reach, especially if you smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture.

Dogs
Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer.  All it takes is one swift bite and the baby bird is gone.  Don't let your dog run loose during nesting time.

Squirrels 
Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious menace to bird houses and the birds themselves.  If you find your nest hole enlarged, chances are a red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs and young.   Adding a predator guard of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually enough to keep squirrels out.

Raccoons and Opossums
Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try to pull out the adult, young, and eggs. Adding a predator guard to the bird house or to its pole support is a simple solution.

Snakes
Snakes are an important part of the natural balance between predator and prey.  If you find one of these reptiles in your bird house, please don't kill it.  Snake-proof your house by putting it on a metal pole lathered with a petroleum jelly or hot red cayenne pepper.

European Starlings and House Sparrows  
If you don't discourage them, these two pest species introduced from Europe will bully or kill cavity-nesting birds.  Since house sparrows and starlings are not protected by law, you may destroy their nests.  But, remember, other birds are protected by law.

 

House Wrens
Sometimes house wrens interfere with the nesting success of other birds by puncturing their eggs.  But unlike the sparrow and starling, these birds are part of the natural system. They are protected by law.  Don't be tempted to intervene.

 


Insects
Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. You should inspect your bird houses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats, and bees.  You can keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating the inside of the roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths abound, avoid placing boxes in oak trees, which are favored by the gypsy moths.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly larvae, bird lice, and mites.  Use only after the birds have finished nesting for the season.

I hope the information we have been providing in our blog has helped you to enjoy your bird watching.  Please feel free to add any tips or tidbits of information for our readers. If you have an interest in adding to your birdhouse or bird feeder collection, visit our website at www.aboutbirdhouses.com. 

BIRD HOUSE PLACEMENT

Where you put your bird house is as important as its design and construction. Cavity nesting birds are very particular about where they live. No matter how perfect your bird house or nest box, if you don't have the right habitat, the birds aren't likely to find it.  Not everyone has the habitat for a wood duck, purple martin, or screech owl. On the other hand, just about anyone can attract a robin, titmouse, wren, or chickadee.

Let's assume you've built or bought the "perfect" birdhouse. You put it out in your backyard in February. Months pass, and not one bird has landed on it. What's wrong?   It may be that you don't have the right habitat, or it may be where you placed the birdhouse.

There are a lot of things you can do to modify your land to attract the birds you want to see.  It can be as simple as putting out a bird bath or as complicated as planting fruit-bearing shrubs or installing a pond with a waterfall.  But it's much easier just to identify the birds most likely to take to your backyard as it is and place the appropriate nest box in the right place.

Should you hang it from a tree limb, nail it to a fence, or mount it on a pole or a tree trunk?   There's a wide range between how high and low you can place a nest box. Pick a height that's convenient for you. After all, you'll want to watch what goes on and keep the box clean. If you want to watch chickadees from your second floor window or deck, fifteen feet is not unreasonable but it's a lot easier to clean out a box at eye level.

Here are some tips on where to put bird houses:
•    Birdhouses mounted on metal poles are less vulnerable to predators than birdhouses nailed to tree trunks or hung from tree limbs.
•    Use no more than four small nest boxes for any one species or one large box per acre.
•    Put about 100 yards between bluebird birdhouses and 75 yards between swallow boxes (if you have both species, "pair" the houses with one bluebird box 25 feet from a swallow box. Put the "pair" 100 yards away.)
•    Don't put bird houses near bird feeders.
•    Don't put more than one box in a tree, unless the tree is extremely large or the boxes are for different species.
•    If you have very hot summers, face the entrance holes of your boxes north or east to avoid overheating the box.
We hope this information helps you to enjoy the many different birds you will attract to your backyard.  When you have the time check out the many birdhouses and bird feeders we have available at our website www.aboutbirdhouses.com.

Birdhouse Maintainance

There are several maintenance items you should be aware of to make your birdhouses safe and comfortable for its’ occupants.  Here are a few:

Ventilation

Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. The two best ways to provide ventilation are to  leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4" holes just below the roof.  Remember our homes have ventilation vents to help with air in our homes.

Drainage

Water can become a problem when it sits in the bottom of the bird house.  A roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection.  Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the water out.

Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole.  You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and drilling 1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors are recessed about 1/4 inch.

Entrance Hole

Most entrance and exit holes on the front panel near the top.  A rough surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the box and, when it's time, for the nestlings to climb out.

If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside below the hole.  Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside.   Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole.  Perches offer starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait for lunch.

Don't be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share their birdhouse. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Accessibility

Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds are doing and, when the time comes to clean out the house.  Part of being a responsible birdhouse landlord is your willingness to watch out for your tenants. Monitor your bird houses every week and evict unwanted creatures: house sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, and insects.

Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes. You may find something other than a bird inside. Don't be surprised to see squirrels, a mouse, a snake, or insects. Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box.

If you find insects and parasites, your first reaction may be grab the nearest can of insect spray. If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1% rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray. If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of the box with bar soap.

Take care of your birdhouses and enjoy the tenants.  To see many great looking birdhouses go to www.aboutbirdhouse.com.  See you in the next post.

SELECTING A HOUSE

In the bird house business, there's no such thing as "one size fits all." You need to decide which bird you want to attract, then get a birdhouse for that particular bird.

 Look through any book or catalog and you'll see bird houses of all sizes and shapes, with perches and without, made of materials you might not have thought of: recycled paper, gourds, plastic, rubber, pottery, metal, and concrete.  So what makes a "good" bird house? It's a combination of quality materials and design.

 MATERIALS

Of all the available building materials, wood is about as good as you can get. It's durable, has good insulating qualities, and it breathes. Three-quarter-inch-thick bald-cypress and red cedar are recommended. Pine and exterior grade plywood will do, but they're not as durable.
It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as long as the inside has not been treated with stains or preservatives. Fumes from the chemicals could harm the birds.

There's no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood houses will last longer with a coat of water based exterior latex paint. White is the color for purple martin houses. Tan, gray, or dull green works best for the other cavity nesting species. The dull, light colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators. Don't paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole.

Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you nail them will extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass shank nails, hinges, and screws resist rusting and hold boxes together more tightly as they age.

 Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. Reflective metal makes sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when it's tacked onto a roof of a wood chickadee house, the metal is more likely to attract predators.

Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They "breathe," and because they sway in the wind are less likely to be taken over by house sparrows and starlings.  Grow your own gourds and you'll have dozens to choose from in the years ahead. If you don't have the space to grow them, a coat of polyurethane or exterior latex (on the outside only) will add years to the one you have.

Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), concrete, and plastic houses will breathe and are durable, but don't drop them.  Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for maintenance and monitoring. Concrete (actually a mix of concrete and sawdust) offers protection other houses cannot: squirrels cannot chew their way in.

 DESIGN

How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of aesthetics. For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right dimensions: box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole above the box floor. Send me an email for the for the birdhouse dimensions for the species you are trying to attract. 

However, keep in mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So don't be surprised when you find tenants you never expected in a house you intended for someone else.  Check out the birdhouses available at www.aboutbirdhouses.com.  In the next post we will talk about ventilation, drainage and the entrance hole.  Until then.

What You Should Know About Brids and Their Birdhouses

It doesn't matter where you live -- in an apartment, townhouse, or single family dwelling, in the city, suburbs or country. Just stand still and you'll hear them: wild birds. It's hard to imagine life without them.Bird watching is one of the fastest growing hobbies in the country. 

It's easy to understand why. Birds are fun to watch.  And you can watch them just about everywhere. The most convenient place to start is right in your own backyard. All it takes to get their attention is water, food, and a place to build a nest. 

This information is designed to help you build or buy suitable birdhouse or nesting boxes--for birds. Your success in attracting birds will depend on what you know about birds and the birdhouse design.  Here’s what you need to know to get started:

• which birds nest in houses
• basics of bird-house construction
• proper placement
• good maintenance
• how to deal with predators
• monitoring. 

In future posts we will talk about each of these items.  In the meantime checkout this website www.aboutbirdhouses.com.

Protect Your Birdhouses from Predators

Cats  

Nesting birds are very vulnerable to cats, as are fledglings and birds roosting for the night. Bell collars on cats offer little protection for the birds. Nailing a sheet metal guard or cone to a tree trunk is unsightly, but it may deter less agile felines. Birdhouses mounted on metal poles are the most difficult for predators to reach, especially if you smear the poles with a petroleum jelly and hot pepper mixture.

Dogs

Pet dogs are a hazard to nestlings in the spring and summer. All it takes is one swift bite and the baby bird is gone. Don't let your dog run loose during nesting time.

Squirrels 

Red squirrels, and sometimes gray squirrels, can become a serious menace to bird houses and the birds themselves. If you find your nest hole enlarged, chances are a red squirrel is the culprit. Once inside the box, squirrels make a meal of the eggs and young.  Adding a predator guard of sheet metal to the entrance hole is usually enough to keep squirrels out.

Raccoons and Opossums

Raccoons and opossums will stick their arms inside nest boxes and try to pull out the adult, young, and eggs. Adding a predator guard to the bird house or to its pole support is a simple solution.

Snakes

Snakes are an important part of the natural balance between predator and prey. If you find one of these reptiles in your bird house, please don't kill it. Snake-proof your house by putting it on a metal pole lathered with vaseline or hot red cayenne pepper.

House Sparrows and Starlings

If you don't discourage them, these two pest species introduced from Europe will bully or kill cavity-nesting birds. Since house sparrows and starlings are not protected by law, you may destroy their nests. But, remember, other birds are protected by law.

House Wrens

Sometimes house wrens interfere with the nesting success of other birds by puncturing their eggs. But unlike the sparrow and starling, these birds are part of the natural system. They are protected by law. Don't be tempted to intervene.

Insects

Many insects lay their eggs and pupate in bird houses. You should inspect your birdhouses for signs of gypsy moths, blow flies, wasps, ants, gnats, and bees.  You can keep bees and wasps from attaching their nests by coating the inside of the roof with bar soap. In areas where gypsy moths abound, avoid placing boxes in oak trees, which are favored by the gypsy moths.

Pyrethrin and rotenone insecticides are recommended for killing fly larvae and bird lice after birds have finished nesting for the season.

Birdhouse Placement Tips

Birdhouse Placement Tips

When to place birdhouses Make sure your birdhouses are in place well before the breeding season begins. Don’t be discouraged if the birds do not begin nesting in your box immediately; sometimes it takes time for the birds to find it. * In the south, place your birdhouses by February. * In northern regions, place your birdhouses by mid to late March. If you are looking to attract a variety of species to your nest boxes and have ample room, you might consider pairing your boxes. This involves placing boxes in pairs on poles 15 to 25 feet apart; or you can put two boxes, back to back, on a single pole. Birds such as Tree Swallows and bluebirds will nest closely to one another, although conspecifics will be driven away. Pairing boxes has the advantage of allowing more birds of both species to coexist peacefully within the same habitat. Golf courses, cultivated fields, gardens, and yards are great habitats for nest boxes, but avoid areas where pesticides and herbicides are used. These agents are not only harmful to birds, they decrease and sometimes eliminate insect populations—the primary food source for many cavity-nesting species. How to place your birdhouse Whichever method you choose to erect your boxes, be sure your box is secure enough to withstand high winds and severe weather. The best way to erect small nest boxes is on free-standing metal poles or PVC pipes. These pipes or poles offer several advantages: * Nest boxes can be mounted higher than when mounted on a fence post. * Many predators find poles difficult to climb. * Poles can also be easily equipped with a predator guard. Where to place nest boxes Bluebird open field or lawn; orchards; open, rural country with scattered trees and low or sparse ground cover; Mountain and Western bluebirds will also use deciduous and coniferous forest edges; entrance hole should face open field, preferring east, north, south, and then west facing directions. box height: 3-6 feet Purple Martin broad open areas (meadows, fields, farmland, swamps, ponds, lakes, rivers) with unobstructed space for foraging on flying insects; there should be no trees or buildings within 40 feet of the martin pole in any direction box height: 10-15 feet     Wood Duck forested wetlands or near marshes, swamps, and beaver ponds; place boxes in deciduous trees, 30-100 feet from the nearest water, spaced 600 feet apart. add 3" of wood shavings box height: 6-30 feet American Kestrel pastures, fields, meadows, or orchards with mowed or grazed vegetation; place boxes on lone trees in fields, on trees along edges of woodlots, and on farm buildings box height: 10-30 feet Eastern Screech Owl forests, parks, woodland clearings, forest edges, wooded stream edges, under a tree limb. entrance hole should face north. Add 2"-3" of wood shavings box height: 10-30 feet Western Screech Owl lower elevations, forests, parks, woodland clearings, forest edges, deserts, wooded stream edges, under a tree limb. entrance hole should face north. Add 2"-3" of wood shavings box height: 10-30 feet Great Crested Flycatcher deciduous or mixed deciduous-coniferous forests, forest edges, woodlots, orchards, parks, on post or tree at forest edge box height: 3-20 feet Ash-throated Flycatcher chaparral, mesquite thickets, oak scrub, dry plains spotted with trees or cacti, deserts, and open deciduous and riparian woodlands box height: 3-20 feet Northern Flicker pastures, groves, woodlots, orchards, fields, meadows, woodland clearings, forest edges, urban parks, on pole or tree at forest edge or along fence rows bordering crop fields; box should be completely filled with wood chips or shavings. entrance hole should face southeast box height: 6-30 feet Tree Swallow open fields near water, expansive open areas, marshes, meadows, wooded swamps; on a post in open areas near tree or fence, 30-100 feet apart. entrance hole should face east box height: 5-15 feet Violet-green Swallow open or broken deciduous or mixed deciduous-coniferous forests, wooded canyons, edges of dense forest box height: 9-15 feet Tufted Titmouse deciduous forest, thick timber stands, woodland clearings, forest edges, woodlots, riparian and mesquite habitats; spaced one box per 8 acres, hole should face away from prevailing wind box height: 5-15 feet Black-capped Chickadee forests, woodlots, and yards with mature hardwood trees, forest edges, meadows, area should receive 40-60% sunlight, spaced one box per 10 acres, hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-15 feet Carolina Chickadee forests, woodlots, and yards with mature hardwood trees, forest edges, meadows, area should receive 40-60% sunlight, hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-15 feet Mountain Chickadee coniferous forests, forest edges, woodland clearings; hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-15 feet Chestnut-backed Chickadee coniferous forests, mixed deciduous-coniferous forests, forest edges, woodlands, thickets, burned areas, often near streams; hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-15 feet White-breasted Nuthatch deciduous woodlands, mature forests, woodlots, near open areas, forest edges, orchards, often near water; hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-20 feet Red-breasted Nuthatch mixed coniferous-deciduous forests, shrub lands, swamps, farmlands, suburban parks; hole should face away from prevailing wind; 1" shaving can be placed in box box height: 5-15 feet Brown-headed Nuthatch open stands of pine-hardwood forests, clearings scattered with dead trees, forest edges, burned areas, cypress swamps box height: 5-20 feet House Wren variety of habitats, farmland, openings, open forests, forest edges, shrub lands, suburban gardens, parks, backyards; near trees or tall shrubs box height: 5-10 feet Carolina Wren forests with thick underbrush, forest edges, woodland clearings, open forests, shrub lands, suburban gardens, parks, backyards; near trees or tall shrubs box height: 5-10 feet Prothonotary Warbler lowland hardwood forests subject to flooding, stagnant water, swamps, ponds, marshes, streams, flooded river valleys, wet bottomlands; box should be over or near water box height: 2-12 feet Hooded Merganser quiet, shallow, clear water pools surrounded by or near the edge of deciduous woods: small forest pools, ponds, swamps; add 3" of wood shavings box height: 6-25 feet

When searching for great birdhouses check out our website at Aboutbirdhouses.com.